Watering

Plants require supplemental water until their root systems are established. This is a full growing season. For everything you need to know about watering your trees and shrubs.

Watering deeper and less frequently is recommended. For the science behind this, read our article on how soils store moisture. Watering deeply and less frequently helps encourage the development of a deeper root system.
Plants that are watered more frequently but for less time each watering will develop a shallower root system that is more prone to drying out.
Watering by hand with a watering can, setting a hose at the base of the plant on low with a timer set, or using drip irrigation are all good ways to water plants while they are establishing in the garden.
Plants that are not drought tolerant require regular watering (even after establishment) in order for them to thrive and grow to their fullest potential, especially in June, July and August. Drip irrigation is an efficient way to water; it keeps foliage dry which reduces the risk of disease, and greatly reduces a gardener's workload.
For more detailed information, read our article on watering.

Pruning

Every plant has unique pruning needs. Some plants need no pruning and perform best given space to mature and left to grow. Other plants produce more flowers or fruit when pruned. Learning the right time of year to prune your plants is important when taking care of new plants and it is essential in reducing the risk of pests and diseases.

Spring and early summer-flowering shrubs generally flower on the previous season’s growth. They benefit from being pruned after flowering, to permit new wood to grow and ripen, then bloom in the following year.
Late summer- and autumn-flowering shrubs generally flower on the current season’s growth. They benefit from being pruned in spring to encourage vigorous shoots that will flower later in the same year.
Trees are best pruned when they are fully dormant in the winter (and before their sap starts flowing once days warm up in the spring) or during the summer after they flowered.
Some plants do not fall into an easy pruning category because it depends how you would like to utilize its ornamental or edible attributes.
For more information on pruning times you can view all articles on pruning here.

Most importantly when picking up the secateurs be sure there is a good reason to prune.

Plant Hardiness

New gardeners are often worried about whether or not plants need protecting over the winter. Generally, plants sold at garden centers are hardy enough that they will not require winter protection. Here is a shortlist of marginal plants that may require protection or special care.

New Zealand Flax (Phormium sp.)
Hebe and other marginal shrubs
Hardy banana (Musa bajoo)
Gunnera
Windmill palms (Trachycarpus fortunei)
Hardy fuchsia

Read our article for more on winterizing the garden.

Pests

Diseases, insects, fungus, and viruses are all potential plant pests. Growing plants in the right conditions is the best way to prevent plant stress, which prevents plant pests. If a plant appears to be suffering from a pest, identifying the pest before trying to control or manage it is essential. Remember that some pest damage is acceptable, and it’s more harmful to the plant and its ecosystem to interfere than it is to let some aphids have a heyday on a couple of Dahlia stems. A great resource to identify common garden pests is the pest and disease images page on Linda Gilkeson’s website.

Light

Before planting your tree or shrub it is important to know the light levels of your site. Is your space sunny? When is it sunny? Morning only? All day? Afternoon only? And if it’s shady, how is it shady? The north side of a building? The canopy of existing trees? A general rule of thumb is:

Full sun: Six or more hours of direct sunlight each day.
Part or light shade: Four to six hours of direct sunlight everyday.
Dappled shade: Two to three house of filtered sunlight, usually under the canopy of deciduous trees where one-third of the sky is still visible.
Full shade: Less than four hours of direct sunlight each day
Deep shade: Little to no direct sunlight, usually under a dense tree canopy.

Soil

Understanding your soil is just as important as understanding the light levels of your site. Knowing how your soil drains and your soil texture will help you to select plants that will thrive in your existing conditions, or determine whether or not amending your soil is recommended.

Drainage Test

Dig hole 12 inches wide by 12-18 inches deep.
Fill the hole with water and let it drain. This could take a short period or full day.
Fill the hole with water again.

Analyzing the results:

Well-drained: soils that drain more than 4 inches of water per hour. These soils may need organic matter added to the soil to aid in water retention or plant these soil with species that tolerate drier soils.
Average draining: soils that drained 1 to 3 inches an hour are desirable for the widest range of plants.
Poorly drained: soils that drain less than one inch per hour. Improving drainage may be necessary or select plants that tolerate wet growing conditions.

For printable step by step instructions click here.

Texture

Soil texture is a great thing to understand to ensure the right plants are selected for your site. Loam is the most desirable type of soil for gardeners as the widest range of plants grow in it. Sandy soils are free draining so a plant that is more drought tolerant should be selected or more frequent irrigation will be required. Clay soils are less well-drained.

The jar test is a simple test that home gardeners can do to determine what kind of soil texture you have (the percent of clay, silt and sand). For step by step instructions click here.

Soil Amendments

One of the best ways to take some of the guess work out of the science of gardening is to amend your soil with organic matter, such as compost or manure. This will improve drainage in clay soils, improve water retention in sandy soils, and increase the fertility of the soil, which creates a better medium for most plants. Adding organic matter to soils can be especially useful when completely changing the existing soil is necessary (e.g. builders fill).

When you come to the garden center after doing a bit of preparation we can do so much better in helping you to choose a plant that thrives in your site. Remember our favourite gardening principle: “Right plant, right place”.

Our Top Plant Care Troubleshooting Tips

Windows and rock mulch can cause sun scorch: Windows can reflect refracted light onto plants resulting in sun scorch, sunburn or heat stress. Rock mulch can also result in sun scorch, sunburn or heat stress, especially in plants that are not suited to very high light levels and high heat (Rhododendron, Pieris, Azalea, Dogwood trees, Japanese maples, Magnolia, Hydrangea, Camellia, etc). This is an indication that they are not planted in an ideal location and moving them in the fall may be worth considering.
Plants are more resilient that we give them credit for: Deciduous plants can defoliate after extreme heat or drought and leaf out afterwards if given enough water.
Plants can curl their leaves when exposed to too much heat or sun: Newly planted plants that were in a shadier location at the nursery may do this until they acclimate to their new location. Dogwood trees and rhododendrons can also do this in summer when exposed to too much sun or heat. This is an indication that they are not planted in an ideal location and moving them in the fall may be worth considering.
If you think your plant has died after winter or an extreme weather event, scratch the bark on a stem with your fingernail: If it is green underneath the plant is still alive and has not yet broken dormancy, or it has defoliated and just needs more time to leaf out.
Be patient: The first year after planting plants sleep, the second they creep, and the third they leap. If your plant is not growing it may just need time and nothing else.

Proper Care: Trees and Shrubs